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3 Best Pottery Towns In Italy

  • June 5, 2024
  • zoe

After living in Italy for a few years, I can look at a piece of Italian pottery and tell you from which region it came.  Three distinct ceramic regions come to mind– In central Italy (Umbria), there is a distinct glazing method, and the vibrant red, blue, and gold hues of Deruta depicting historical and mythical scenes; in the North (Veneto), Nove is famous for its lovely cream coloured kitchen and tableware and beautiful florals and vegetables, and finally, in the South (Campania), there are the bright, yellow lemons and vivid colored backgrounds celebrating the local sea and animal life of the Amalfi coast. So, what makes Italian pottery so special? The history and craftsmanship. Terra cotta, earthenware, majolica, and porcelain have been around for thousands of years, but in Florence, the Renaissance skilled artisans perfected the ancient tradition of “lusterware” with its beautiful iridescent finish, and it grew to be a symbol for the nobility, thus Deruta became known as the “ceramic capital” of Italy.  The town of Deruta may not be known to you, but when you see a piece of pottery from there, you’ll recognize it immediately. One of the famous designs coming from central Italy is the famous Chicken pitcher. If you’ve ever been in a Williams Sonoma or Sur La Table, you’ve seen the ubiquitous chicken pitcher which wards off danger. Deruta is only about an hour and a half north of Rome. It’s best to arrive in the morning, shop, and then enjoy a wonderful lunch while the shops are closed for riposo. A few of my favourite spots are Il Ghiotto Beccaria and Asso di Coppe (yes a truck stop with homemade pizza and pasta)!

North in the Veneto Region is the very tiny town of Nove with over 20 shops to find those one-of-a-kind pieces. Williams Sonoma, Lenox, Sur La Table, Pottery Barn, and Tiffany & Co. all have much of their kitchenware made here. I first visited the town in 1990 and was totally overwhelmed. My favorite shop is La Ceramica VBC. I think I walked around the entire warehouse 3 times before grabbing a cart and deciding what I was going to buy. No husband should let their wife shop in Nove, it’s a dangerous place! The shops make the most beautiful luxury and designer ceramics that you can buy for so little.  You’ll need a car to visit as it is not on the major roads, and you’ll want a good-sized trunk to bring your goodies back. If you are limited on luggage space, VBC will gladly box and ship to the USA for a very reasonable price. The more you have, the better the price; so, go with friends and ship your loot back. If you pull into the parking lot, and the shop looks deserted, don’t worry they are in there. Bring lots of cash; you’ll be shocked at how much you’ll want to buy. Places do take credit cards, but you’ll often get a discount if you pay with cash. If you need to take a break between shops, head to Pizzeria Guiliana for some good food and wine.

 

Ah… the Amalfi Coast. Groves of lemon trees balance on the cliff sides and stunning small seaside towns. But I bet you didn’t first think – POTTERY! Head south past Naples and Positano, and you’ll come to the charming little town of Vietri sul Mare. Leave the crowds behind and visit for a lovely day trip. Here you can find hand-painted tiles and ceramics in varying shades of blue, green, and yellow.  Everywhere you look–from the front of the stores, the corners of the streets, to the dome of the 17th century S. Giovanni Battista church, there are majolica tiles everywhere.  The narrow streets of the town are scattered with small stores and workshops where distinct shapes and colors of plates, bowls, vases, tea and coffee sets, sacred objects, and the very famous donkey (Fortunato who brings good luck) can be found. Ceramica Artistica Solimene is one of my go-to stores run by the same family for over eighty years. A few tasty lunch spots are Pizzeria Divina Vietri and Ristorante 34 da Lucia.

Look for the mark

Genuine handmade Italian ceramics should have the name of the country and/or town of origin, and possibly the artist or the studio. Often there will be ‘dipinto a mano’ or ‘dip. a mano’ on the base, which means ‘hand painted’.

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      • Croatia: Rovinj, Porec & Pula
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    • Updates from the Edge
      • Carnoustie – Long Journey Home
      • Veneto: The Land of Quaint Towns
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      • At Sea… Again!
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      • Croatia: Rovinj, Porec & Pula
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      • The Dordogne: Beynac-et-Carzenac & Outdoor Activities
      • The Dordogne: Caves
      • The Dordogne: Castles and Chateaus
      • Dordogne Region: Saint-Émilion
    • Germany
      • Christmas in Garmisch, Germany
      • Christkindl Markts
    • Greece
      • Paxos, Greece
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      • Veneto: The Land of Quaint Towns
      • Dolomites, Italy
      • Valdobbiadene, Italy
      • Padua, Italy
      • Venice in a Day
      • 3 Best Pottery Towns In Italy
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