There are probably better times to visit Europe than winter as far as the weather is concerned. But the Old World has something other countries simply cannot compete with—historical, enchanting Christmas Markets. I am not a fan of cold weather, but who doesn’t love the holiday season? It’s the most wonderful time of the year, that magical time when excitement and joy fill the air. Colors of red and green, Santa Claus, flying reindeer, stockings hung by the fireplace, Hallmark movies, cookies, and presents—lots and lots of presents. Christmas music transports us to those magical memories, making us feel like children again. For many, it is a rich tapestry of historical and cultural significance, but for others, it is a season of busyness, stress, and frenzy. If you want to ditch the hustle and bustle of an American Christmas and recapture that sense of wonder, head to Germany. A visit to a “Christkindl Markt” (literally meaning “Christ child market”) should be at the top of everyone’s list during the holiday season; it is like stepping into a fairy tale where tourists and locals come together in the cold and embrace this special season. No one does Christmas quite like the Germans, probably because they’ve had lots of practice.
Dating back to 1434, the markets are usually held in the town center and surrounded by historic buildings. The smells of roasted chestnuts, gingerbread, and mulled wine float through the air while thousands of twinkle lights dance in the frosty night air—nutcrackers, pyramids, hand-painted Christmas ornaments, and Nativity sets. For those not into the “shopping” spirit, there is plenty to keep you busy. Ice skating and some typical German food and drink will keep everyone satisfied.
Christmas is synonymous with Germany; in fact, most of our traditions originated there— evergreens and decorated trees, advent calendars and wreaths, gingerbread houses and fruitcakes, glass ornaments and nutcrackers, and the stockings hung by the chimney with care, and even Kris Kringle, a corruption of Christkindl, all came from German Europe. What is the best way to describe a German Christmas market? From late November until Christmas Eve, big cities like Dresden, Munich, and Nuremberg to smaller towns like Bamberg, Klagenfurt, and Weimer showcase traditional foods, crafts, and music in the town squares. Festive lights, antique stalls, and decorations create a winter wonderland oozing with the Christmas spirit. Spending even one hour in one of these markets is enough to convert the cynical of Scrooges. Traveling around Germany is a must-do as nearly every town hosts its own market. Most markets begin around four weeks before Christmas and usually end on Christmas Eve. The world’s first Christmas market took place in Dresden in 1434, and the tradition has continued since then. Each year, the markets get bigger and better! Europe holds thousands of markets yearly—way too many to list; Germany alone has up to 2,000 Christmas markets. There are too many cities and towns all over Europe now offering a break from the noise and frenzy of the holiday season, but here are a few of what I think are some of the best in Germany.
Rothenburg ob der Tauber — Christmas markets are held in cities worldwide, and the vibe and feel of the markets change with each city and town. But for me, Bavaria is the king of Christmas. Snowcapped mountains, storybook villages, and fairy-tale castles are the perfect backdrop for some of the biggest and best markets in the world. From Würzburg to Füssen along Germany’s Romantic Road, one can find markets in the many historic and medieval walled towns. My favourite along this 290-mile stretch is Rothenburg ob der Tauber. Maybe it’s my love and obsession for Medieval literature, knights in shining armour, and Gothic architecture, but these villages are magical to me. Walking through the large stone archways, I feel the history radiating around me. With its small Christmas market and medieval charm, the Rothenburg Christmas Market is steeped in a rich history dating back to the 15th century. The market is held in the town square, flanked by half-timbered houses, and captures the spirit of Christmas in Rothenburg. If you are heading there, save room for a special treat— a ‘Schneeballen,’ a calorie-loaded pastry shaped like a snowball, deep fried and dusted with powdered sugar. Add a mug of Gluhwein (GLUE-vine)—warm red wine combined with cinnamon, cloves, orange, and sugar, and your Christmas spirit will soar.
Nuremberg— It is not the oldest (Dresden) or the largest (Frankfurt usually wins this title). Still, with over two million visitors, the Nuremberg market is one of the most popular and internationally most famous of the German Christkindl markts. It has easy and convenient access with frequent train connections and flights from most major European cities. In predominately Catholic Bavaria, the Christkind (Christ child) traditionally brings the gifts at Christmas, not Santa Claus. She is typically a child with angel wings and curly blonde hair dressed in white and gold. She opens the Christmas market by inviting all to remember their childhood as life is fleeting, just like the temporary season and market. With over 200 vendors, the market stretches the length of the famous medieval square leading right to the front door of the Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), the city’s iconic 14th-century church. Most products sold are generally high quality and often closer to art than decorations. Hand-carved wooden items are particularly praised. Just north of the market is the “Sister Cities” market, where you’ll find stalls from different parts of the world, like Ghana, Scotland, Columbia, and Italy. You can shop for many international products, from Colombian coffee to Italian-cured meats. Most stalls don’t take cards, so bring cash and a reusable bag for all those gifts.
Munich— The capital of Bavaria is the place to be for Christmas. There are several holiday markets throughout the city, each different from the next, but the original takes place in the Marienplatz, the main town square, beautifully laid out below the towering glockenspiel and town Christmas tree. Stalls line all sides of the square, and vendors offer every German craft, food, and drink imaginable. Located in the heart of Munich, it is easy to reach and, as such, is the most crowded. Search for that perfect stocking stuffer, put yourself into a Glühwein stooper, eat your weight in strudel and sausage, and get lost in a maze of the 16 Christmas markets throughout the city. Marvel at Bavaria’s largest nativity scene, skate in one of the largest mobile ice rinks, and enjoy a variety of musical performances, including traditional folk music, brass bands, and choirs. My favourite of all entertainment is by far the traditional Krampus run, where Hundreds of masked Krampusse (the beast-like devil who accompanies Saint Nicholas to punish naughty children) stalk the Christmas market, scaring everyone in their path.
Cologne (Köln)— Famed for its towering twin Gothic cathedral spires and Kölsch beer, Köln is to be found in the West of Germany, in a region known as the North Rhine Westphalia. Cologne doesn’t host just one Christmas market. Instead, Cologne has many different markets rolled into one big festive party. Each market has a different vibe or theme. Do you prefer local and handmade souvenirs or want to go ice skating? Or is it all about the food for you? My favourite is the Kölner Dom, where a towering 80-foot-tall Christmas tree towers over the stalls, selling everything from gifts to local delicacies. Just around the corner is the Advent Village Market with a giant wooden Christmas pyramid, doubling as the market’s bar. Despite its size, everything feels cozy and cheerful. Vendors sell traditional gifts like Christmas smokers, nutcrackers, and Russian nesting dolls. Music lovers will appreciate the variety of variety of Yuletide entertainment. The best part of visiting the different markets in Cologne is that each one has its own Gluhwein mug for you to collect! You’ll have to pay 2-3€ as a deposit; you can return it for a refund, but I love to collect them as souvenirs and reminders of my magical visits.
For a more intimate experience, check out some of the “smaller” Christmas markets. Most are like a page out of a medieval fairytale. There’s just something about a small town that makes it perfect to feel that magical, childlike spirit of Christmas.
Leipzig— Although it’s not the smallest of markets, Leipzig, located in Saxony, has hosted its Christmas market since 1458, making it Germany’s second oldest, and the character is very intimate and grand at the same time. While all Christmas markets have a unique and distinct flare, a few local treats usually set each apart. Leipzig is no exception. It has the typical food favourites: Bratwurst, Glühwein, and Stollen, but it also has a few only known around the Leipzig area— Kräppelchen, a deep-fried, yeast-dough is like a beignet, and the Leipziger waffle is delicious indulgence filled with vanilla cream. Although Leipzig is a smaller town, it doesn’t mean the festivities are reduced. As the birthplace of Wagner and home to Bach and Mendelssohn, it embraces its musical heritage at the annual market, combining music and shopping. While enjoying some great desserts, attend one of the many Christmas concerts, or you can ride the Ferris wheel or walk through the fairy-tale forest. Even the town hall is transformed into a giant Advent calendar revealing a new Christmas surprise every day at 4.30 pm until Christmas Eve when the final door is opened at 11 am.
Erfurt— Erfurt, set in the heart of one of the best-preserved Medieval towns in the central state of Thuringia, wins my vote for one of the best Gothic backdrops for a Christmas market. The imposing St. Severus Church and St. Mary’s Cathedral have watched over the town since the 13th century. Martin Luther, who became a monk here, called Erfurt the “city of towers.” A brightly decorated giant tree and Ferris wheel greet visitors in the town square, and the life-sized wooden Nativity scene is nearby. But my absolute favourite thing about Erfurt’s market is the 40-foot pyramid, with each section having a different theme and life-sized wooden figures. You can probably guess woodwork is a specialty of the region. Every night, there’s live music on the stage, and the decorated wooden huts are even more charming, not to mention the smells that rise from ovens, grills, and steaming cauldrons. The most popular (and I think the best) sausage is the Thüringer Bratwurst. In fact, a surviving recipe from the early 17th century is kept in the State Archives in Weimar.
The Christmas market season kicks off at the end of November and runs through Christmas. Most markets are open all day, but check the hours and dates before visiting. The best time to truly experience the wonder of a market is when the sun goes down, the lights begin to twinkle, and the live music begins. Above all—come hungry! No matter which one you visit, a Christkindl Market oozes the true spirit of Christmas—it is a time to connect with friends and family and create memories that will last a lifetime.
