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Christmas in Garmisch, Germany

January 4, 2025
KK

While the London Ladies and I were painting the town, Jack met Sarah in Norway for a short trip to the North Pole (it was really Tromso, which is above the Arctic Circle), and his update is soon to follow. I left the ladies (+1 husband) to fend for themselves while I flew to Germany to meet up with some of the family for Christmas. It’s an amusing story about how we settled on skiing in Germany for Christmas. Twenty years earlier, the whole Stuart gang spent Christmas here at the brand-new Edelweiss Lodge and Resort—the military’s hotel for all services. Last year, the family discussed the bi-annual vacation plans, and Kalee said, “Let’s go back to Germany!” So, we did. Garmisch is an idyllic location nestled at the foot of the Bavarian Alps. If you happen to be retired from the military and have not visited Garmisch and the Edelweiss Resort and Hausberg Sport Lodge, you need to put it on your bucket list. It was great for our family twenty years ago, but we decided to rent a large house a short walk from the town center this year. We had room to spread out with seven bedrooms and 3 ½ baths.

Kalee, Landis, and the two fabulous grandchildren boarded a United flight to Munich to meet up with everyone. Unfortunately, United (as usual) lived up to its reputation as one of the worst airlines to fly. It was a very old plane, the seats were tattered and worn, and none of the electronics worked the whole flight! (No movies to entertain the kids on a 10-hour flight is unacceptable!) But my resilient military-raised daughter had things under control, and they soon met me with smiles at the Hofbräuhaus for a pint and a pretzel. We all had a little rest and then ventured out to the Christkindlmarkt for some Glühwein and Bratwurst. It was such a beautiful night to share the beautiful capital of Bavaria with the grandkids. Jack and Sarah flew in later that night and were excited to share their journey with us. (More on that later)

Munich with Noni

Time for Pretzel

The next morning, suitcases and kids loaded up in the two BMWs (it is Germany, after all) for the one-and-a-half-hour drive down to Garmisch-Partenkirchen. When we arrived, there wasn’t much snow, but the next few days brought a few feet of glorious powder. I’m unsure whether Georgia Ann and Case had more fun playing in the snow or skiing. The Hausberg Lodge had ski equipment to rent and allowed us to park close to the slopes. (They have a shuttle from the Edelweiss Resort if you stay there). They also have a kids’ ski school in a small area behind the Lodge, but we weren’t thrilled with it. If we could do it over, we probably should have paid for private lessons on the Garmisch Classic Ski slopes. But the kids did well, and after a few unsure runs on the bunny slopes, the kids became confident and ready to tackle the larger runs.

Kalee and Sarah

Landis and Kids

Aunt Sarah with GA & Case

Landis and Kalee

On Christmas Eve morning, we received one of the best gifts – over a foot of snow; it was a white winter fairytale that had not happened in over ten years. We woke to a beautiful snow-covered landscape and had a quick breakfast before readying ourselves for another fun-filled ski day at Garmisch Classic – as the Zugspitze was closed due to “too much snow!” Christmas morning, after we each opened just one present, we trekked to the top of the Zugspitze via the world’s longest free-span cable car—the Seilbahn Zugspitze— which has the world’s highest steel construction support tower. It’s an unbelievable 10-minute ride to the summit of Germany’s highest peak, with a total elevation gain of 6382 feet. The snow was incredible on the slopes—about a foot and a half at the base. The skiing was much better with groomed fresh powder, and we all enjoyed the warmth of the bright, sunny day. Best of all, there were very few crowds, and the lift lines were manageable. I will say for a country that prides itself on organization and rules (they will actually stand at a crosswalk in the middle of the night, with not a car in sight, and wait until the little green man says walk!), but there doesn’t seem to be any rules for lift lines. No orange poles are directing where you should line up. There is no single line joining—everyone just skis over everyone else and pushes to the front of the line or wherever they can go. If you get your skis in front of the others – you win. So, it was wonderful not to fight a crowd at the lifts. The kids were great sports and rode the six-man chair to the top and skied all the way down. After a few runs, it was time for some of us to have a little hot cocoa break back at the lodge, while Jack and Sarah kept skiing the more challenging slopes for as long as possible. After a great day of sun, snow, and skiing, everyone was ready to return to the house for some sustenance and rest.

Christmas Day Skiing

Gang at Zugspitz

As for our dinners and foodstuffs, we made several trips to the local stores and the small Army commissary. Believe me, we had plenty to eat and drink. (especially the adult beverages). I was reminded of my childhood, gathering bottles to take back to the store and getting the deposit back. The German stores have machines inside to deposit the cans and bottles and then gives a receipt for a cash refund! Jack and Landis had a little difficulty figuring out which cans and bottles were acceptable, and they got a few ugly eyes from those in the long line behind them. For the first time in years, we did not have curry for Christmas Eve; Landis and Kalee made delicious spaghetti & meatballs for all to enjoy. Since Bavaria basically shuts down for 3 days (24^th-26^th), Landis had walked to the butcher early one morning to find a beef tenderloin for our Christmas Dinner! Between Christmas Charades and a few classic movies, 2024’s Bavarian Christmas, with all its snow, the views, and our family time, was one we will remember for a long time. Soon, it was time to return to our normal lives (if you can call our life back in London normal). Sarah, Jack, and I flew out on the 28^th, and the Blackburns stayed on for a little more family time in Munich. One lesson I think we all learned from this trip is that it isn’t the presents under the tree; it is the presence of those around it.

Zugspitz - Top of World

Zugspitz Observation Deck

Merry Christmas!

Garmisch Market

The year 2024 brought so many good memories; I can’t wait to see what 2025 holds. In fact, Sarah and a few friends will join us in London for a quick visit, and Kalee has already booked flights for a summer visit to London.

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One Response

Kathleen says:

January 23, 2025 at 9:12 pm

Catching up on your travels! Glad the tree worked out and Germany didn’t disappoint!!! Looking forward to more adventures in 2025!

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