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Crete, Greece

  • September 8, 2025
  • KK

After a very early wakeup call (3:30) and the Gatwick Express for our 7:30 flight, Jack and I grabbed a sandwich at Pret and were ready for the 4-hour journey to the largest Greek Island—Crete. I usually do all the travel arrangements, but this time Jack wanted to try his hand at it.  He contacted Simpson Travel, whom we have used before for Lefkada, and explained he wanted somewhere different and remote.  Well, we got exactly what he asked for: different and very REMOTE!

Flight London to Crete
Eastern Crete

We landed in Heraklion a little tired and wary of the 3+ hour drive through the mountains. The drive south was not for the faint of heart. I haven’t seen anything like it since I drove the Amalfi Coast years ago. These mountain roads, each with hairpin turns that seemed to defy logic, revealed dramatic drops into a gorge or another ridge ahead. What made it especially unnerving was the near-total absence of guardrails—just a narrow strip of road, a cliff, and then open sky. You hope another car isn’t speeding around the corner in your lane.  The Greeks don’t seem to have the “safety standards” America has when it comes to guardrails and sheer drop-offs.

Before heading to our Villa, Aetos, in the far Southeast section of Crete, we made a quick stop at a grocery store in Ierapetra to pick up enough supplies and meat to get us through the first week. Simpson Travel had explained there were no real supermarkets within an hour and a half of our villa, so it was best to stop and load up in the largest town en route.  They weren’t kidding. Our local mini-mart was a kind of catch-all—a curious blend of groceries, pool floats, beach towels, packets of pasta, and shelves stacked with Greek beer and local wine (the latter a bit of an acquired taste).

After a somewhat successful grocery stop, we had to find our way to Xerokambos, the tiny hamlet that would be our home for the next two weeks. The last 50 miles were even more harrowing than the first, but I was rewarded with lovely views out my window—ravines plunging beneath us, small olive trees clinging to hillsides, and the sea sparkling in the distance.

We finally made it to Villa Aetos and were thrilled to have the drive behind us; now it was time for an adult beverage! The villa was small but modern and new in every detail. A big change from the flat in London. A small living area, a comfy bedroom with an ensuite bath, and an up-to-date—though tiny—open kitchen that seems designed more for breakfasts and light suppers than ambitious cooking. I assume most people eat out while on vacation, but I prefer to cook and then enjoy the views across the sea while dining al fresco. And the outside setting is the best thing about the villa; it’s tucked into the rocky landscape, with sea and sky stretching endlessly beyond.

Don't look
Exciting Drive
Made it!
Villa Aetos View
Remoteness of Villa

We went exploring the next day and found a good path down to a lovely rocky beach, but the wind was blowing so badly that our beach umbrella would not stay put. The weather was all sunshine, but the wind was terrible. We decided to head up the coast and explore the area, and we found Palekastro, a mid-sized town with a butcher and a few larger mini-marts.

Our days consisted of taking walks, finding uncrowded beaches, and just hanging out by our pool.  On a relatively calmer day, we headed up to Kato Zakros, about 25 minutes east of our town. We found a good hike near there at the Gorge of the Dead, a 3-mile in and back trail. It was a great hike, although a little challenging in spots where we had to climb over boulders to stay on the marked trail. After a good long hike, we rewarded ourselves with a frosty Mythos at the local taverna. Turns out the three tavernas along the beach have free umbrellas and sunbeds. I now knew where I wanted to go on the next beach day. 

Our days in Xerokambos consisted of relaxing by the pool, reading books, and a few road trips to the local mini-mart or to the larger town to restock supplies. I cooked most nights because our patio was so beautiful and the views out to the sea could not be beat at any restaurant—besides, after a few days of Greek “Cuisine”, we were ready for something besides roasted meat and potatoes!

A few days later, Jack wanted to try a little slow trail running at the same hike we had done a few days before at the Gorge of the Dead, but this time he wanted to do the whole 5.5-mile loop. I dropped him off at the start of the trail, and I went down to Kato Zakros and the Akrogiali Taverna and plopped myself on a nice sunbed and waited for Jack to finish. Unfortunately, it took longer than he had anticipated. Initially, he planned on spending maybe 1.5 hours, but called me to say he would be longer. Due to the spotty cell service, I really couldn’t understand him and didn’t know he had cracked his head wide open. After another hour, I received a text with an ETA of another 20 minutes. I drove to pick him up at the trail exit, but Jack did not arrive. Over an hour later, I see a bloody mess walking down the hill. He had slipped on a rock and split his head wide open. He was covered in caked blood, but his head wound was still raw and bleeding. One look at it, and I knew he needed stitches.  I drove back to gather up my things on the beach, got him cleaned up the best I could, and then drove to the nearest hospital, an hour away. €24 and 7 stitches later, Jack was as good as new. I don’t think he’ll be hiking alone for a while!

Southern Crete Beaches
Gorge of the Dead
Minor Mishap in Gorge
End of Day

The beaches around our small village were both rocky and sandy, and crowded, considering our remote location. It’s obviously August and the Greeks are on holiday.

Our two weeks went by quickly, and it was time to load up the car and head west to the center of Crete (more or less) to the tiny village of Pompia. Our stay at the Laini Suites was lovely, close to a few hiking areas, with a few tavernas nearby—there was even a post office (sort of).

The central southern part of Crete is much like the rest—very mountainous and rocky with scattered olive trees. On both days, we braved the snaking, twisting, and torturous switchbacks to reach our hiking spots. Again, no safety regulations on these roads. After crawling and climbing over rocks and boulders, we had another two strenuous hikes under our belts. Crete offers some truly spectacular mountain-to-sea hiking, and the views along the way are incredible. We completed both the Nissos Circuit and the Kali Limenes-Agiofarago hikes, which required navigating a steep ascent and called for some expert fitness and balancing moves, but we made it back to our car without incident this time.

Rocky Beach Life
Nissos Circuit
Great Weather!
Kali Limenes-Agiofarago

Now it’s time to head back to London for the remainder of our 14-and-a-half-month journey before heading back to the land of tacos, BBQ, Chick-fil-A, and Whataburger. Oh – and seeing our kids and grandkids! (but I think I’ll have a taco first!)

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