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Dolomites, Italy

  • July 22, 2024
  • KK

I’m not much of a mountain girl; I prefer the sea and the sun, so Paxos, Greece, was a sure stop on our Schengen Shuffle. But Jack loves the coolness of hiking in the mountains, so we added the Veneto region to the itinerary before Greece, which meant I could get a few good glasses of Prosecco, and he could hike pretty much everywhere. We decided to head to Cortina for a few days to get as much hiking in as possible. After a few discussions with other hikers and all the recent clamor of the 2026 Olympics in Cortina, we thought it best to stay in Corvara in Alta Badia, another ski area close to Cortina. Even though I had traveled through these mountains on my way to Germany many times, I’ve never taken time actually to stop. Still, I’ve always been amazed at how much the Tyrol area (the northernmost region of Italy) feels like Germany. A friend of mine once told me the area had a real identity crisis: living in Italy but with the personality of Austria. There’s a good reason why all the houses are in the Bavarian style with their gabled roofs, wooden beams, and window boxes filled with colorful flowers—this area was part of Austria-Hungary until 1918 and was mostly German-speaking territory until the Allies gave it to the kingdom of Italy. It’s truly a unique alpine symphony in northern Italy.

CORTINA D’AMPEZZO

We left Valdobbiadene early on Tuesday morning (July 9th) to drive up to the Dolomites for our first hike of the day from Cortina. So many cranes, so much construction preparing for the ’26 Olympics! After a quick stop at the tourist office and a cappuccino for Jack, we headed to the Funivia Faloria—the cable car that would take us to our starting point at 2134 m  (7,001 ft). It was warm as toast at the beginning, and both of us were sweating as we climbed up another very steep path to reach the Rifugio Capanna Tondi. (Side Note— Rifugi are mountain cabins (a refuge for hikers) run by locals and are mostly accessible only on foot and some by cable car where you can stop for lunch/dinner or have a big beer). The views were spectacular, and the beer at the end was well-deserved. It might have been warm when we began, but after my profuse sweating on the climb up, I realized I had no jacket or long-sleeve shirt to throw on as it was much cooler at the top. I must apologize to the Rifugio—I did walk out with one of the paper tablecloths to tie around my shoulders!

Cable car view of Cortina
Long walk up
View from Rifugio Capanna Tondi

After another scary drive through the mountains, we made it to our next trail. (Another side note: while the drivers in the North are not nearly as aggressive as the Neapolitan drivers of the South, the hairpin turns, the plethora of road bikers, and the lack of decent guardrails made the driving a little daunting for Jack. On one steep descent, Jack had a biker literally on his tail urging Jack to go a little faster!) The Cinque Torri –Scolattoli Refuge was a short two-mile loop with only 600 ft. of elevation. We wanted to hike the entire Cinque Torri Averau trail that started at the very bottom (a five-miler), but due to lack of time and daylight, we drove up to the top and did the two-mile loop trail. The Cinque Torri area was strategically important during WWI and had a tumultuous history both during and after WWI. Along the many trails, there are signs of the war: observation posts, barracks, and a small open-air museum.

Iconic Cinque Torri
Hiking at Cinque Torri
Hiking at Cinque Torri
Climbers
Hike complete

CORVARA 

 In my humble opinion, Corvara is way better than Cortina, not just for skiing, but for lodging and all things summer, and it’s much quieter and quainter than Cortina. It’s part of the Dolomiti Superski ski area. The views in and around this region are just absolutely bananas. If mountains are your thing, there is no better place in Europe to whet your appetite than here.

After another harrowing drive of switchbacks, tunnels, bikes, and, of course, jaw-dropping scenery, we made our way to our hotel, Hotel Table, sitting squarely in front of Sassongher Mountain, the symbol of Corvara. The room was huge by European standards, had a large balcony, and was booked with half board – breakfast & dinner. There is a free shuttle to and from the ski slopes in the winter. Everywhere you turn in Corvara there is some sort of sport, biking, hiking, climbing, or kayaking. After a hearty Italian breakfast (sarcasm, by the way—sweet croissants, cookies, muffins, and cheeses), we headed south to Arabba on our way back to hike the Utia La Marmotte, a 5-mile loop trail with an 1184’ elevation.  Instead of taking the convenient chair lift, we hiked up to the top. The weather was warm, the forest was lush and green, and the wildflowers were in full bloom. After the arduous hike (moderately challenging), we made our way back to the car and had a non-Italian lunch of Shnitzel and Burgers before making our way south back to our digs in Valdobbiadene.

Hotel Table
End of day
Morning coffee - wow!
Hiking Utia La Marmotte
Great ski potential
What a view!

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  • Travel Blog
    • Updates from the Edge
      • Carnoustie – Long Journey Home
      • Veneto: The Land of Quaint Towns
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      • Crossing the Pond
      • At Sea… Again!
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      • Croatia: Rovinj, Porec & Pula
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    • Germany
      • Christmas in Garmisch, Germany
      • Christkindl Markts
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      • Paxos, Greece
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      • Veneto: The Land of Quaint Towns
      • Dolomites, Italy
      • Valdobbiadene, Italy
      • Padua, Italy
      • Venice in a Day
      • 3 Best Pottery Towns In Italy
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