NC500 Scotland

RUGGED, REMOTE, AND REMARKABLE—

Our drive around the North Coast 500 in the Scottish Highlands

As Walt Whitman stated, Afoot and light-hearted, I take to the open road, Healthy, free, the world before me; well, that’s exactly what Jack and I did for three weeks. We didn’t just take to the open road; we experienced—The birth-place of Valour, the country of Worth; Wherever I wander, wherever I rove, The hills of the Highlands forever I love (Robert Burns).

Yes, Scotland was the birthplace of his grandparents and a very special place for his parents. After a whirlwind time with his cousins in Edinburgh to see the Military Tattoo, Jack rented a car, and four of us (Jack’s sister and husband) squeezed in with our suitcases and coats and headed north to the Highlands with a few stops along the way. If there’s one thing Scotland does well—it’s castles, and the Highlands are packed with them. It’s hard to pick a favourite, but being the Anglophile and Shakespearean buff I am, Glamis Castle takes the top prize. A gift to the Bowes-Lyon family by Robert the Bruce (1372), the castle has hosted many infamous Jacobite characters, including Mary, Queen of Scots, and James Stuart, the“old pretender”. Long story short – King Charles II died (protestant), and brother James VII (James II in England)—devout Catholic—inherited the throne. Unfortunately, for those pesky Jacobites (Catholics), James and his family fled to France, and the English Protestants crowned William and Mary (cousin to James) joint monarchs of England in 1689. This place has so much history and secrets hidden within the walls; oh, if only the walls could talk! And yes—of course, it’s haunted; probably the most haunted in all of Scotland. A few of my favourite ghosts are— an Earl who loved playing cards was into his cups and playing late into the Sabbath (a big sin!); he made a deal with the devil and now he’s trapped inside the walls playing cards with the devil for eternity; or how about Lady Jane Douglas (the Grey Lady), who was burned at the stake for witchcraft (or maybe her husband’s murder) she now sits in the family chapel in her favourite seat and weeps, so be careful which seat you take less you will be sitting on her lap. But wait, what about Shakespeare? Glamis castle inspired his famous play Macbeth, and throughout the gardens, there are so many carved timber statues depicting scenes from the play. My favourite scene (of course) is the three witches; “Double, double toil and trouble; fire burn and cauldron bubble.”

Glamis Castle

Hike at Glamis Castle

Glamis Castle Gardens

Double Toil and Trouble

OK – moving on to the next castle… Scone Palace in Perthshire. This castle was magnificent. It was the place where Scottish kings Macbeth, Robert the Bruce, and Charles II were crowned on the famous stone of Scone. But like anything of importance to the Scots, the English took it away and had it built into a new throne at Westminster Abbey, now the Coronation Chair. Even Charles III sat upon this stone in 2023 when he was crowned King. The castle itself is impressive, but the best part of our visit was the Murray Star Maze, which is in the shape of a five-pointed star with over 2,000 beech trees and 800 meters of paths. We were eager to try the elaborate puzzle, so four of us went in, and only three came out. Can you guess which one could not find the way out? Yes, the Naval Aviator. Maybe he did need an NFO. After we all had a good laugh, Jim went in to help guide the lost soul out.

Then it was on to Inverness. We stayed at a lovely guesthouse, the Inverglen, within walking distance of restaurants and shops. Unfortunately, I got to experience the National Healthcare System of Scotland. It turns out a poisonous spider bit me (I think in France), and a week later, I had a raging infection that turned into MRSA. Long story short, the first attempt with NHS and the ER didn’t succeed, and the second trip was more successful. Two doctors, an NP, and a medical Microbiologist finally determined the right course of antibiotics and drainage (OUCH – no lidocaine!) The good news was it was all FREE—yes, tourists can go to the ER for treatment at no cost. After two very painful days, we began the 500-mile circuit of the north coast of Scotland, the NC500. It’s a breathtaking drive full of hikes, castles, mountains, and gorgeous beaches. We began our journey counterclockwise, stopping for a bit of luxury at the Dornoch Station Hotel, where breakfast and dinners were quite tasty and included with the room! Jack and Jim (brother-in-law) headed out for some traditional Scottish Spey Casting (a fancier fly fishing technique for Salmon) on the river Shin. While the boys tried their luck outdoors, Christie (sister-in-law) and I went to the Spa for some much-needed pampering.

Dornoch Station Hotel

Fishing on River Shin

Spey Casting on River Shin

Jim with Fishing Guide

Another two nights down, and we set off for the small town of Wick and the Mackay’s Hotel. Our first outing in this area of Caithness was to the ruins of Castle Sinclair Girnigoe and what was left of the Castle of Old Wick. It was an eerie feeling standing on the edge of the cliffs with the whistling wind and crashing waves against the sandstone beneath. Both castles looked like they would fall into the sea at any moment. What remains of these two once beautiful castles is what 300 years of abandonment look like. Another trip from Wick was to the most northerly point of Scotland, and no, it is not John O’Groats; it is Dunnet Head, with a magnificent lighthouse and WWII fortifications at this very tip of the mainland. Most of you know I am not a fan of cold, wet weather, and I believe God was watching over me since we had only a few showers throughout our trip; however, that’s not to say it wasn’t a little chilly. This particular day was sunny and about 60F, but the wind—Oh My! Getting out of the car alone was a chore because the wind would rip the door off. It only got worse as we walked to the top of the hill where the fortifications were. Jack said it was blowing about 50mph!

Mackay's Hotel, Wick

Castle Sinclair Girnigoe | Caithness

On to Castle Mey, originally Barrogill Castle, which I thought was the best of all the castles in this area. Built in 1573 and eventually abandoned, the newly widowed Queen Elizabeth, The Queen Mother, was spending time with her friends in Caithness. She saw the run-down, isolated castle and knew she wanted to live there immediately. The Queen Mother had it renovated, and now it’s like a time capsule of the 50s. She spent the next 50 years there every August to October. It is now King Charles who visits before his trips to Balmoral. It was very special to walk through the very rooms where this lovely lady spent so much of her time. I find it amazing that someone so wealthy and royal lived in such modest furnishings. It definitely was a lived-in home. My leg was still painful, so I took a day off and stayed in the hotel while the others made their way to the Wick Heritage Museum. It is small, plain, and unassuming from the outside, but it packs a big punch. It gave a glimpse into the local people and their lives— from the fishing industry, education, and even a working lighthouse—the museum showcases local life in and around the area. Jack’s favourite piece of information was that parent’s didn’t buy their kids shoes until winter (see picture); a great money-saving idea for home!

Castle Mey

Wick Heritage Center

Children in Wick 1920

While the rest of the family went out on a few hikes, I stayed once again in the hotel to get my leg infection under control. But after a nice rest, I was ready to head to Orkney. Since Orkney isn’t technically in the NC500, I’ve decided to give it a blog of its own, so you’ll have to read all about it in our next blog!

Back to the NC500….

A ferry ride from Orkney brought us back to the mainland, where we made our next stop along the NC500 at the very comfortable Tongue Hotel. We were surprised the tiny town had such a fantastic hotel. Built in the mid-19^th century, this old hunting lodge for the Duke of Southerland is nestled within the sleepy village of Tongue. With purple-tinged heather and moorland dotted with sheep and Highland coos (cows), the Northwest coast gave us beautiful views over rugged headlands and weather-worn rocks jutting into the sea. We interrupted our daily drives with hikes in the surreal landscape with breathtaking scenery around every bend of the road. Of course, much of the excitement came from inside the car as the single-track roads led to some hair-raising games of chicken with the few cars coming our way. One of our day trips took us outside the tiny Hamlet of Durness and the Smoo Cave—the largest seaside cave in Britain— a mythical cave where smugglers once hid their treasures. Being the literary buff I am, I imagined Grendel from Beowulf snuggled into his lair or Merlin’s cave straight from Arthurian legend. After paying our £15 each, we donned hard hats and climbed into a small boat, ferrying us through the heart of the dimly lit cave. We ducked our heads and pressed ourselves against the bottom of the raft as he pulled us out from beneath the low-hanging rocks and along the edge of the second cavern. We came to the cavern’s end and hopped onto wooden boards randomly scattered in a small stream. I was a little worried one of us would miss a step and end up soaked to the knees. After a quick walkabout, we hopped back into our boat, ducked heads again, and arrived at the landing. The journey in and out of the cave was short but worth every pence. It may not be the most majestic cave I’ve visited, nor the most beautiful, but something was enchanting and magical about it.

Tongue Hotel

Day we lost Karen

Smoo Cave

Safely out of Smoo Cave

Back on the road, I wondered…. “How much more stunning scenery could I take?” The day seemed magical with a more dramatic coastline, a hike up to Ardvreck Castle, a walk along Old Shoremore Beach, and even the freshest fish and chips ever eaten at a roadside food truck. Another death-defying drive to Lochniver on what seemed to be skinnier and skinnier tracks brought me to one of the best small guesthouses in all the Highlands—The Albannach. The front garden was beautiful and welcoming; our two hosts, Robin & Ballal, made us feel very welcome. The rooms and views out across Lochinver are magnificent, and the breakfasts are delicious and beautifully prepared—seriously, freshly caught Salmon Benedicts, anyone? The group’s consensus: it was probably our favorite place to stay along the NC500. Completing the circular route through Ullapool, we ended our journey back in Inverness.

For an incredible road trip, this should be on your bucket list. Mythical lochs, incredible heather-covered glens, mountains, and dramatic coastal views await at every turn of the road. Throw in a few castles, a little golf, a wee dram, and some fantastic hikes and history, and we had a road trip unlike any other. The scenery will be stamped on my soul forever.

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