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Padua, Italy

  • July 11, 2024
  • KK

Those of you who know me well, know I am a GEEK when it comes to art, history, and churches. Rome and Florence reign as champions for all three. But Padua is a city in close contention as it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site not only for its 14th-century fresco cycles but also for the world’s first Botanical Garden at one of the oldest universities in Europe. Most tourists head to Lake Como, Venice, and Verona – but Padua is also a great place to explore, which is exactly what Jack and I did. The two main sites I wanted him to see were the Scrovegni Chapel and the Basilica of St. Anthony. A short one-hour drive from our base in Valdobbiadene brought us to a parking garage in the city center, which was easy and inexpensive (about $8). Walking through a network of picturesque, cobbled stone streets, we wound our way to a wonderful pizzeria, Zairo, near the Prato della Valle, one of the largest squares in Europe (Red Square in Moscow is only larger). The Prato was used for everything from persecuting Christians to horse racing, jousts, and St. Anthony’s sermons.

Prato della Valle
l'Isola Memmia
Market Day

After a delicious lunch, we headed to the Cappella degli Scrovegni (the Scrovegni Chapel—also known as “Giotto’s Chapel”). A wealthy and ambitious family (the Scrovegnis) built the chapel to connect to their palazzo, which was eventually demolished (???) and only the chapel remains. The chapel is a masterpiece of medieval art; Giotto spent 855 days (1302-05) painting in great detail Biblical scenes which marked the beginning of a new era in art and influenced fresco technique, style, and content for a whole century. Giotto’s 14th century fresco cycle was revolutionary. A little art history lesson:

With wealthy bankers now as patrons, artists could focus on a more humanistic approach.  Giotto broke away from the flat symbolic icons of the Middle Ages where the church controlled everything and gave animation and expression to the Divine humanizing both Mary and Jesus. No longer were they stiff and expressionless symbols but more personal and accessible. No boring and lifeless saints and madonnas instead Giotto’s scenes have real people in realistic poses and the women actually have breasts (imagine that)! His new humanistic style with a connection to feelings, emotions, and the human form influenced the great artists of the Renaissance. Michealangelo’s Last Judgement and Giotto’s are eerily similar—Michealangelo took Giotto’s paradise and doomed sinners to a whole new level with swirling figures and more color and physical depictions. Michelangelo painted his chapel 200 years after Giotto completed the Scrovegni Chapel, and it is clear Giotto greatly influenced him and laid the foundations for the Renaissance masters.  Admittance is limited and you need to reserve a time slot on their site.

Scrovegni Chapel
Chapel Interior
Giotto's Crucifixion of Christ
The Last Judgement

OK enough of the history lesson.  I’ll move on to St. Anthony and the Basilica. St. Anthony is the patron saints of lost causes and the protection of travelers. The interior is spectacular with its beautiful mosaics and frescoes. After a walk about in the Basilica, we took a spin in the very ornate Chapel of the Reliquaries. I’m not Catholic, but I do respect their beliefs and understand how in Medieval times, these Saints were the celebrities of their time—the heroes who were held in high esteem for their virtues. They inspired and encouraged others to live a Godly life. Worshippers and the curious visit this chapel to see his tomb and the ornate wall housing parts of St. Anthony’s body, including his tongue, jaw bone with a complete set of teeth, and the vocal cords of the Saint.  

Basilica of St. Anthony
Church of the Eremitani
In front of Basilica

The one disappointment we had in Padua was the Astrological Museum; it was closed and only by a pre-schedule tour could we have seen it. All in all, the trip to Padua was a wonderful day out. Jack, the engineer, is getting his fair share of art, history, and religious education!

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  • Home
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    • Updates from the Edge
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      • Christmas in Garmisch, Germany
      • Christkindl Markts
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      • Paxos, Greece
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