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Paxos, Greece

  • August 5, 2024
  • KK

Did you know you could visit a different Greek island every week, but it would take you over five years just for the inhabited ones as there are more than 6,000 Greek Islands.? How do you choose? My choice—Paxos—was made for me. In 1997, my husband, a Navy pilot and squadron commander, had his change of command on the USS Theodore Roosevelt (CVN-71), which had pulled into Corfu that summer. I wanted to go somewhere with our four children before the hectic celebratory schedule and ceremony, so I checked out which island was closest and different from the Florida coast, where we were living. Paxos won! In Greek mythology, the island was created when Poseidon took his trident and cut a piece off from Corfu to create a secluded place where he could be with his mistress. Thirty years ago, Paxos (part of the Ionian islands) was off the radar to most tourists, but it was perfect for us. I rented a tiny two-bedroom, one-bath original stone house owned by a family of chicken farmers. There was a tiny stove (my Easy Bake Oven) with two little burners, a college dorm room fridge, and little in the way of living space. Needless to say, it was extremely rustic, but the view from our patio overlooking Marmari Beach made it all worthwhile. Family memories were made every night as my four children and I sat out under the stars and played cards while eating potato chips and cookies. During the day, we walked the short path to a secluded and empty beach. I rented a boat for $35 all day. This was an island where if you didn’t have the correct change, the owner said,” Come back sometime this week and pay!” Can’t do that in the U.S. I knew I had found Paradise! It had all the charm of a simpler life—grounded by a connection to the past with all its seafaring charm and the friendly locals at the main square cafes. However, time marches on, and so does the thirst to get away from a stressful lifestyle and the accelerating rat race—endless meetings, deadlines, traffic, and overwhelming responsibilities. Have I seen a change over the past 27 years on this idyllic island, just six miles long by two miles wide with only 2500 permanent residents? Absolutely!

Boat access only to beach
Quiet harbor
Paxos Sunset
Pristine water

Although Paxos is still off the radar in terms of extreme tourism (think Santorini and Mykonos), the island’s popularity sees about 250,000 visitors during the summer season. Once, an old sailor named Odysseus was the most famous to hit the island; now, the rich and famous descend on the two islands of Paxos and Antipaxos for a taste of heaven on earth. So forget the Romans; it’s now the invasion of the A-listers. I remember watching Nicholas Cage jet skiing near Gaios harbor in 2001 after filming on nearby Kefalonia. I knew it was all downhill from there. 2010, Oprah Winfrey came with her mega yacht; recently, Keanu Reeves, Angelina Jolie, Julia Roberts, Bradley Cooper, and many more came to taste paradise. Jeff Bezos and his $500 million three-masted mega yacht anchored in the harbor during my two-week stay this year. Nicole Kidman, her hubby—Keith Urban, and her family dined at a local beach taverna. The rental market has also seen a major increase in price and comforts. Rentals once were old, remodeled stone homes with very few amenities—a pool was unusual since water was so scarce on the island. Fast forward 30 years, and there are few reasonably priced properties remaining. Yes, university students and backpackers can rent rooms on a budget, but those looking for a nice family holiday have less to choose from. Huge heavenly hideaways are being built each year for the uber-rich who demand direct access to an unpopulated beach, an infinity pool facing the ocean, and all the modern conveniences they so wanted to escape. They aren’t here for the “rustic charm” of the simpler life; they want modern amenities—a dishwasher, washer/dryer, internet, and lots of electrical outlets.

Super yacht
Boats in anchorage
Superstar visitors
Love the helo on deck!

Has the “discovery” changed Paxos? Yes and no. There are way too many and larger cars now, mopeds, and now—4-wheelers on the narrow, winding single-track roads, many created from old unpaved and rocky donkey paths. You will have trouble finding a parking spot unless, and now must reserve a table even at the smallest tavernas. Locals have mixed feelings about the growth of their small island. Water is a precious commodity. They understand the negative impacts on the infrastructure, but they also need to make a living during the short four-month season. Therein lies the juxtaposition—the need for money but also to keep the island’s rustic charm and natural beauty.

Corfu
Erimitis Beach
Celestino Restaurant
Il Primo Pizza
View from Villa Pandora

Yes, our little island has changed and grown, and the roads are having a difficult time keeping up with the scores of vehicles rented to the masses. Yet, we still come back holding on to our memories of the “good old days”, wanting our favourite restaurants and bars to remain frozen in time. There is one thing constant in our visits to Paxos—Tripitos Arch. Whether it’s a hike from the nearest parking spot or the 5-mile trail run, our pilgrimage to this 65-foot natural rock formation remains the same. (Side note here—this is where my family will sprinkle me when I’m gone— if they don’t throw me off before then!)  Yet, despite the mega-rich and celebrity invasion, Paxos still holds much of its idyllic charm. It’s the perfect beach holiday with guaranteed sunshine, white-pebbled beaches, and endless shades of blue water. Panos still rents boats in Loggos, and the hordes of tourists wanting a boat to rent have turned a few fishermen into boat rental tycoons. Now, they sit drinking iced coffees at Roxi’s waterfront bar. (Side Note: we rent our boats from Jerry at Roxi Bar and have a cold beer upon our return). Loggos is a special place where you literally dine alongside the water’s edge. The local bakery still makes the best giant, sugar-coated doughnuts and an array of fresh bread. Greek bracelets, worry beads, and evil eyes are sold to the “budget” travelers at the local small shops, and hungry fat cats stroll the tavernas hoping to find a scrap from your dinner.

Kipiadi Beach
Kipsos Beach
Tripitos Arch
Erimitis Beach
Avlaki Beach

Yes, it’s now a different place from my first trip 27 years ago, but I’m sure we will return again and again. The locals are the true character and soul of Paxos. They will greet you with a big smile and a Greek greeting, and there is always a hug, a squeeze of the shoulder, or a double-cheek kiss to be had. There are uncrowded and pristine beaches with rocky outcrops, white pebbles, deep blue and turquoise water, and olive trees almost touching the sea. Some are only accessible by boat, while others by car and short walks down to the beach. It’s hard to pick a favourite—Erimitis, with its 300 steps and giant cliffs; Avlaki, with a secluded bay and flat, rocky overhangs for sunbathing, and Kipiadi, with its long stretch of pebble-strewn beach and beautiful blue waters. But for the most dramatic shades of blue water, a 15-minute boat trip to Antipaxos—the tiny sister island is the place to be. With a sandy white beach and aquamarine water so clear you see fish swimming around your toes. Voutoumi Beach (the second bay) wins everyone’s book. You can rent a boat and anchor off the swim area or take a sea taxi over for a day trip. The boats leave Gaios port beginning at 9 am and continue throughout the day, with the last pick up at 6 pm for your return.  You can rent a sunbed and umbrella for the day and have a wonderful lunch at Voutoumi Beach Taverna a few short steps away. Giannis and Panos (the owners) will not disappoint. While on this tiny island, take the 200 steps for a spectacular view of the bay and anchored yachts while enjoying a cold beer at Bella Vista Taverna.

Voutoumi Beach
View from Bella Vista Taverna
Vouloumi Beach Taverna
At Voultumi Beech Taverna with ownerGiannis
At Roxi Bar with owner Castas
At Il Primo with owner Panos

If you want unforgettable memories and a detox from the sounds and stresses of life. Come to my corner of paradise where your mind and body can relax. There are many booking sites for villas, but since 1997, I have booked through Ionian Villas; my friends David Waltrous and his son, Alex, will make your holiday one to remember forever and will keep you coming back to this special island over and over again.

Parrino's at Roxi Bar
Gaios Port Upgrade
Best gyros
Roxi Bar view
Villa Pandora
Boating discovery
Path to Erimitis Beach
View menu live in kitchen
KK relaxing at Avalki Beach
Lakka

Logistical Information:

  • Corfu (CFU) is the closest airport serviced by BA, Easy Jet, and many smaller airlines. There are lots of ways to get there from the U.S., but we favor a connecting BA flight through London.
  • Joy Cruises or Kamelia lines have hydrofoils with multiple departures out of Corfu port and Lefkimi (75/40 mins respectively).
  • A Sea Taxi is a great option for late arrivals or missed ferries. Up to 10 people—350€ one way, but you can share the cost with other passengers.
  • Apple Pay is accepted everywhere, but cash is still preferred. Due to ease of transition, we used our phones 100% of the time. 
  • Major hotel brands are nonexistent; book rooms through com or for self-catering holidays.
  • Boat rentals are easy, but a license is needed for bigger boats. (Panos, Nikos, and Roxi)
  • Shops are everywhere, but my favourite for island wear is Il Pareo (say hi to Ian & Julie).
  • Best time to visit is between May and October. July and August are the busiest months. (I advise avoiding August—prices are high, and crowds are crushing.)
  • Bring water shoes for the beach and lots of sunscreen.

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3 Responses

  1. Di Hoe says:
    August 12, 2024 at 4:45 am

    Arriving in Corfu late evening 35yrs ago a taxi took us to the tip of the island where a small boat took us across to Paxos in the dark -it was magical approaching Logos & being dropped at the key where a bar stayed open to feed us – those early years were absolutely idyllic – we had to cancel our 18th visit when Covid hit but managed it last year with mixed feelings. Logos has always been our ‘home’ of choice but so disappointed to find someone is finnaly developing the salt factory into. ‘Boutique Hotel’ (horror) – sadly – our advancing yrs & health issues means I’m less able to cope with the simpler pleasures our island paradice offers but we’re lucky enough to have the memories – the walking – the bus into Giaos – long lunches at Vasilis (senior) – Roxi bar – quiet beaches & just sitting & watching – bliss!💕

    Reply
  2. Nick Metcalfe says:
    August 6, 2024 at 2:18 pm

    Marvellous article… ‘hungry fat cats stroll the tavernas’ – love it!

    Reply
  3. Janet Pearson says:
    August 5, 2024 at 1:01 pm

    Wow!! Your best writing so far and your passion for this, your favorite place and paradise screams loudly so the reader doesn’t miss it! EXCELLENT👏👏👏👏👏
    Jan

    Reply

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