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The Dordogne: Castles and Chateaus

August 30, 2024
KK

There are over 1,000 castles/chateaus in just the Dordogne region. It was an area plagued by fighting for royal control that dominated France during the Middle Ages. By the 16^th century, castle fortifications weren’t needed anymore, and many of these castles were either left to ruin or turned into a more comfortable living space for the wealthy owners.

Chateau de Beynac & Castelnaud Castle

The history of these two rival castles has been entwined from the very beginning, especially during the Hundred Years’ War. Set on opposite sides of the river, and only three miles apart, the English and French battled to control the Dordogne River and the surrounding lands. Both are dramatic representations of medieval defensive fortresses. Perched almost 500 ft above on a limestone cliff, the French-held Chateau Castle Beynac guards our little medieval village of Beynac et Ceznac. Richard the Lionhearted seized it for the English in 1189, living there briefly during his reign until the French retook it. A perfect example of medieval military architecture, its square shape, defensive battlements, and six-foot-thick walls. It is a very steep climb up a narrow, cobbled street, so wear sturdy shoes with non-slip soles, but the breathtaking view from the top is worth it!

While Castle Beynac stood as a French citadel, not far down on the opposite side of the river (about 3 miles) stood Castelnaud, a rival English castle. Again, it played a significant role in the Hundred Years’ War as both castles fought over territory. Over the years, it was also enlarged, fortified, changed hands several times between the French and English, and later remodeled to fit a more comfortable living space. It is one of the most visited castles in France and has lots of activities for kids: medieval warfare displays and hands-on exhibits.

Chateau de Beynac

View from Château de Beynac

Castelnaud Castle

Trebuchet's at Castelnaud

Castelnaud Castle

Chateau de Hautefort & Chateau des Milandes

Chateau de Hautforte —a 12^th-century medieval castle transformed in the 17^th century into a Renaissance palace for the Marquis de Hautefort’s sister—the mistress to King Louis XIII. He added beautiful French formal gardens, but it became a “prison for suspects” during the French Revolution. Later, it fell into ruin but was eventually saved from complete destruction. So went the way of many castles—restored, then left for ruin, bought and restored again. Chateau de Hautforte was finally renovated into the building it is today by Baronne de Bastard (giggle-giggle – truth!) and is still owned by the family’s foundation.

Chateau des Milandes was probably our favourite with an unusual history. The owner of Chateau Castelanud built it in 1489 since his wife was tired of living in a medieval, drafty castle. Like all the other chateaus/castles, it went through many owners until it fell into disrepair after the French Revolution. At the turn of the 20^th century, a new, self-made moneyed class was snapping up the old Chateaus. In 1919, the wealthy owner left the estate to his widow, Josephine Baker, an American singer, dancer, and French cabaret star who often pushed the boundaries of social proprieties of the time. She became a symbol of the Roaring 20s and the Jazz Age. She was married four times, the first at age 13 and the second at 15 (with whom she kept the Baker name). With her third marriage, she renounced her US citizenship and moved to France as a citizen. She bought the chateau to raise her 13 adopted children. Chateau des Milandes is a museum to honour her life and work not only as an actress, but also a civil rights activist. Jack and I found the whole history of her life fascinating.

Château de Hautefort

Dome at Château de Hautefort

Château de Hautefort

Château des Milandes

Garden at Château des Milandes

There are so many things to do in the Dordogne—Hiking, biking, canoeing, caving, and visiting the many chateaus. During our 17 days there, we conquered them all. Now that you have all the essential information on the area, stay tuned for my personal thoughts on our trip.

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One Response

Scott Gregory says:

October 12, 2024 at 1:02 pm

Love the details of the history of this region. Thanks for sharing!

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