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Portsmouth Historic Dockyard

  • August 17, 2025
  • Jack

What Naval veteran could stay in London too long without visiting VADM Horatio Nelson’s Flagship, HMS Victory, in Portsmouth?  After all, the significance of Lord Nelson in this seafaring nation’s history cannot be disputed, as evidenced by Trafalgar Square.  Completed in 1843, Nelson’s Column was built to honor him and the Battle of Trafalgar (1805) against the French and Spanish Navies, where he died in battle.  The 17-foot Nelson stands atop the column, which is surrounded by four quite large bronze lions, which were added in 1867.  But I digress…

So why a trip to the coast to see the Flagship?  I must admit I’ve visited it before, first with my Dad in 1967 and, most recently, in 1996 during a port visit in Portsmouth while deployed on USS JOHN F. KENNEDY (CV-67). I had cocktails on the VICTORY’s Quarterdeck with the carrier air wing’s leadership and our British Navy counterparts – quite a special occasion for all!  Anyway, I’m on my 2nd read (actually listening to the audio book this time) through Patrick O’Brian’s 20-book Master and Commander series.  The depth, character development, and history of the fictional Jack Aubrey and his exploits through his career in the Nelson era British Navy make for exceptional storytelling of many actual battles and events.  A highlight of the series is the numerous Navy traditions and daily routines noted, which are still performed in today’s 21st-century U.S. Navy.  Without question, the fabric of those seafaring traditions makes our Navy, the Officers and Sailors who serve, a unique and special group of professionals. 

Just a quick (1+45) train trip from London Victoria to Portsmouth Harbor; Karen and I were in for a treat— for although my mission was to visit VICTORY, there is SO much more to see at Portsmouth Historic Dockyard!  Seriously, it blew me away with how much there was to explore over the day.  Frankly, we didn’t have time to do it all, but I will cover what we saw and then highlight other attractions that are there.  Let’s dig in!

Harbor Tour: The day began with a 40-minute Harbor Tour on a ferry boat, which provided a great perspective on the Portsmouth Harbor from both the Naval and civilian sides.  As you might expect, there is a lot of naval history in the area, which helped set the scene for the remainder of the day.

Harbor Tour
Historic Dockyard
HMS Victory Under Tent
Emirates Spinnaker Tower

HMS Warrior: Next up was a tour of HMS WARRIOR from the early days of steam-powered ships.  Considered the “crown jewel” of the Victorian Navy, she was launched in 1860 and was Britain’s first iron-hulled, armored battleship.  The largest and fastest ship of Queen Victoria’s fleet, it was probably the most advanced ship in the world at that time.  It is now a fantastic museum, having undergone an extensive renovation over 40 years ago. You will enjoy touring this 420-foot ship and understanding the life of its 700-man crew.  Don’t miss the remarkable 110-pounder rifled breach-loading guns – which, in terms of shipboard guns of the era, is BIG.  (As a matter of note, Nelson’s biggest guns on VICTORY were 32-pounders.)

Warrior Vist
Warfighting Conn
110 Pounder Cannon
HMS Warrior

Mary Rose: I must admit the biggest surprise of the day was our visit to the Mary Rose Museum, which was nothing short of an incredible (some say one-of-a-kind) museum of King Henry VIII’s favorite ship, the Mary Rose, named after the Virgin Mary and the Tudor rose. Opened at the Dockyards just 12 years ago, the museum has on display some of the most well-preserved artifacts from the Tudor era over 400 years ago.   Let me highlight how this all came about – it’s quite a fascinating tale.

Launched in 1511 to serve Henry VIII, Mary Rose sailed for 34 years before being sunk in battle trying to protect England from a French invasion.  Remarkably, she rested at the bottom until being “rediscovered” by a team of divers in 1971.  As the ship lay on its side after sinking, although the “exposed” part was either carried off or deteriorated, a good portion of the boat was covered over time by layers of sediment, compacted clay, and crushed shells.  The story of the ship’s recovery as part of an extensive underwater archaeology project until it was raised in 1982 is well-told at the museum. But it’s safe to say that the meticulous care of this 30-year conservation project, which collected 19,000 artifacts, has truly preserved a piece of Tudor history.  I assure you, this is a must-see museum which stands in a class of its own.

Mary Rose Model
View of Spaces
Stern Looking Forward
Mary Rose Artifacts

HMS Victory:  From a nautical perspective, who doesn’t love HMS VICTORY, which served in its prime with a crew of 800 to fight its 104 guns in the 227-foot ship?  Unfortunately, my visit coincided with the cornerstone of the Royal Navy’s history undergoing a 25-year renovation. With eight years to go, most of the ship was under scaffolding and a tent, which muted its grandeur and beauty.  There were several factors why the ship was not properly maintained through the years. In a nutshell, we can safely say that funding, lack of consistent effort, and the complexity of the maintenance were key factors. Let’s face it, it was an uphill struggle after the Battle of Trafalgar, where the ship was badly damaged before the British victory.  Nonetheless, it was fun to be on board to take a journey back to Nelson’s time, include seeing exactly where Nelson was mortally wounded on the Quarterdeck during battle.  The VICTORY remains in active service for the British Navy (like USS CONSTITUTION in the U.S. Navy) and serves today as the Flagship of the First Sea Lord.

Flagship to First Sealord
Nelson's Jacket
Quarterdeck Plaque
HMS Victory

Our day concluded with a visit to Victory Gallery and the National Museum of the Royal Navy, both in the same area as the other attractions. I wish we had more time in both, as we were rapidly approaching their 17:15 close. We missed the Royal Navy Submarine Museum and a couple of other sites that are undoubtedly worth a visit. Although the day was a grand success, with a great pub lunch at Ship Anson Pub (highly recommended and offering a 10% discount for military veterans), we wish we had arrived earlier to enjoy more time at the dockyard.  We wandered into the central harbor town (about a 5-7 minute walk) for a pint and a nice dinner before catching our 19:30 train back to London.

Bottom line:  Whether you are a lifelong fan of all things nautical or just an ordinary landlubber who likes to see new and interesting things, I highly recommend a day-trip from London to Portsmouth Harbor – you won’t regret it!

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  • karenkstuart@gmail.com
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      • Greenwich: Royal Museums
      • London Update 4 – Tis the Season
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