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London Update Three

  • November 30, 2024
  • KK

November 1-18 Update

Autumn is beautiful here, and Jack and I take advantage of it by getting outside as much as possible. Again, there has been 0 precipitation since September, and it’s been heavenly! I am sure this is a harbinger of what is to come for Winter. Good news—our scaffolding came down, and now we don’t have anyone peeping in our windows in the morning. Our calendar gets full quickly between exercise, pickleball, and old friends in town. We met Nick and Maggie Metcalfe (from our Queen Mary 2 voyage) at the Wallace Collection for a wonderful long lunch. She worked in London right before Jack got here, and Nick is a retired British Army Officer (also a researcher and writer). We became fast friends with so much in common. By the way, if you come to London, the Wallace Collection is an absolute must. It is one of the world’s largest private art collections open to the public, and it’s FREE! It’s a little off the beaten path for most tourists in Manchester Square, a few blocks behind Selfridges. It also is an excellent example of the English Ton’s (society) palatial “London Town Houses!

Kensington Park
Wallace Collection
Wallace Collection
Wallace Collection

November brings our friends, Rick and Kim Stewart, to town. It might be difficult to tell whether they love London or us so much, but we get to have them as guests for two different weeks. Cousin Andy (Scotland fame) gave Jack tickets to the Scotland/Fiji rugby match in Edinburgh, so they changed their arrival date so the boys could have some boy’s time. At least Jack knew a few good pubs and restaurants since we were just there in August. While they were away, Kim and I did some museum hopping. We were off to the National Art Gallery in the morning and walked across the street to St Martin-in-the-Fields (a beautiful Baroque church) and had a small lunch in the Crypt (but it was quite disappointing). The next stop was the V&A (Victoria & Albert). It is the world’s largest museum of applied arts, decorative arts, and design and has fabulous exhibitions. It definitely should be on your list! This is my favourite museum in London, and the Cast Courts are amazing. These casts are true to size, intricate, and incredibly detailed reproductions of some of the most famous and awe-inspiring sculptures ever created. Where else can you see Trajan’s Column up close & personal? The full-scale replica of it stands in two halves and will leave you dumbfounded to see it indoors. The Courts are HUGE —over 80 feet in height—and specifically built to fit the two enormous plaster casts of the columns. I am personally in awe at the creation of the casts. I mean, seriously, someone had to make multiple plaster molds for each piece, separate them, pour wet plaster into the casing of the mold, and then assemble them. It is astonishing to see the tangible and physical details of these reproductions, but a big plus for historians is that they supply valuable information today on the deteriorating originals left to the whims of Mother Nature. Michelangelo’s David, Ghiberti’s Gates of Paradise, and the very large Portico from the Santiago de Compostela Cathedral in Spain! Another wonderful thing about the V&A was that Kim and I enjoyed lovely cakes in the Victorian Gamble Room, decorated with large columns and walls covered in colorful ceramic tiles. It is actually the first museum café meant to give museumgoers a “tea and a hot bun” before they continued with the exhibitions. No trip to the V&A would be complete without a brisk walk down Brompton Road to Harrods and a little wander around the massive Food Hall! It’s so fun walking around the London streets during Christmas! (I know America is still working on Turkey Day, but the festivities start over early!)

Rugby: Scotland vs. Fiji
Trajan's Columns
Victorian Gamble Room
Harrods
South Bank

We were lucky to visit with family friends from Jack’s childhood— Kim and Peter Enns— for dinner and drinks. NYC, Canada, and now London, friends are always precious no matter where we meet up. Although Christmas is in the air, the Brits will never forget Remembrance Day (celebrated on the second Sunday of November). Neither of us had been to the big parade or the wreath-laying ceremony at Whitehall, so we made sure to see it. Unfortunately for us, we arrived late and didn’t see the procession of military bands and the King’s Guards, but we did get to see the Royals (King Charles & Prince William) as they drove down Birdcage Walk to the Cenotaph where the King would give the final salute after the ceremony.  Struggling through the crush of humanity, we made our way toward Horse Guards Parade. With a loud bang, the cannon fired, and everyone suddenly became motionless at once, as if time itself had stopped. The two minutes of silence began. It was amazing to hear the silence of so many people squeezed in shoulder-to-shoulder, eyes locked in their sockets; their bones froze in position. Soon after, we heard the faint sounds of the military band coming our way along with thousands (yes, 10,000—Jack verified it) of Commonwealth veterans marching down Whitehall. They marched to a cheering crowd, shoulders back and chests out with rows of medals—old service caps, berets, and bowler hats were worn once more. WWII vets in wheelchairs, D-Day survivors, widows and caregivers behind them, wounded warriors, and even children who had lost a parent in war. It was so emotional, and I have never witnessed anything like it.  

Kim Enns at The Arts Club
Remembrance Day
Remembrance Day
Remembrance Day

As mid-November approached, Christmas lights went up in all parts of London. Each borough had a tall tree and gorgeous street decorations. It’s hard to find what Americans would call a normal-sized tree over here; most flats aren’t big enough to squeeze a 5-7’ fir in any room. It seems the locals head out to the streets and squares to take their Christmas photos and revel in the city’s mesmerizing lights.  Jack and I decided to head out and see all the festivities at Covent Garden but were stunned to see the crowds of people there.  I have never seen it so crowded! The Christmas tree was up, the stores had festive window displays, and the regular Markets (Apple and Jubilee) were turned into a Holly Jolly shopping zone! But let me stress, I don’t think we would return due to the mass of humanity in the streets from Leicester Square to the Strand!

Covent Garden
Carnaby Street
Marylebone Village
Fever Tree Display!

As the days got shorter (sunsets about 4 here!) and the weather turned colder, we had to bundle up for our walks and exercise classes. We do like having friends come to visit, but we also get to meet up with Jack’s old friends and colleagues from our time in Navy London. On Sunday, we headed over to the Cask & Kitchen in Pimlico to hear Vic Meyer play in a Blue Grass band. It is amazing to run into friends in such a big city—it is definitely a small world.

That’s it for the latest round-up. Stay tuned for the next update, which is sure to be full of more Christmas festivities.

Bluegrass at the Cask
Columns up Close
Marylebone Christmas
Regent Street
Old & New - Shard behind Tower of London
Cheers at The Arts Club
St. Paul's
46 Years of Trouble
John Lewis Rooftop
Oxford Street

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4 Responses

  1. Matt, Sarah & Charlotte says:
    December 12, 2024 at 1:55 am

    Your Christmas card arrived today – thank you so much. It also reminded us to catch up on your blog. Amazing! Pleased you’re having a fantastic time and the Motherland is treating you both well. Enjoy the Christmas build up – we love London in December – please take a stroll down Carnaby Street and enjoy the decorations in Liberty.. Cheers!

    Reply
  2. Scott Gregory says:
    December 2, 2024 at 11:47 pm

    This sure is a great experience for you guys and I appreciate being tuned in with the updates. We had a great Thanksgiving (so much to be thankful and grateful for) with the exception of the OSU debacle. Unbelievable.
    Anyway, way prior to the leftovers being consumed, the commercial activity that kicks off the Christmas holiday was in full bloom.
    As always, thanks for the updates.

    Reply
  3. Wayne says:
    November 30, 2024 at 3:52 pm

    Great update!! Glad to see the Stew’s and Stu’s having fun!!! Cheers!!!

    Reply
  4. Susan DeCorpo says:
    November 30, 2024 at 2:44 pm

    Surely a holiday treat enjoying your pictures and commentary…reminiscing about our London years. Thanks again for evoking such wonderful memories! Your poignant account of Remembrance Sunday was a beautiful reminder of the dignity and respect evidenced there: Jim still has his enamel poppy pin!
    Cheers to your great London holidays!

    Reply

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  • Home
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