London: All That Life Can Afford

August 25, 2025
KK

14 Months Later

London never fails to astonish. In a city where every street corner whispers history, each evening offers a story and each journey a new chapter, my recent travels took me through grand halls, quiet pubs, seaside cliffs, and leafy gardens—culminating in a dawn flight to Crete.

With the Blackburns gone, Jack and I focused our attention on making the most of our remaining 6 weeks in London. Samuel Johnson said it 250 years ago—”When a person is tired of London, they are tired of life, for there is in London all that life can afford.” It rings true for us each time we return here. Even after living in London (albeit 20 years ago) and my returning almost every summer since, I find there are still so many places, pubs, and fascinating historical oddities, including French cannons used as street bollards and the Lions at Trafalgar Square. There is always a staggering number of things to do in this great city. London is known for its music scene, and BST (British Summer Time) at Hyde Park hosts concerts almost every night for three weeks. We enjoyed a wonderful medley of the Royal Symphony Orchestra on a wonderful, warm evening. London is packed with major museums—all free to enter, but the Hunterian Museum at the Royal College of Surgeons in Lincolns Inn Fields is nothing like any of the “boring” museums you might think of. We found it amazing to see what surgery was like in the 18^th century. This place has floor-to-ceiling glass cases crammed with over 16,000 preserved human and animal specimens showing healthy and diseased body parts. It’s not for the faint of heart.

We love to walk and get lost in London, finding unusual places to eat and drink. We wandered through the narrow side streets of London City, their cobbles still echoing with centuries of footsteps, and stopped for a beer at Ye Olde Watling, a timbered pub built in the aftermath of the Great Fire of 1666, where history oozes from each cozy corner. One thing we love about London is how much history can be found at every turn. We were starving by now and stumbled upon the most amazing Indian restaurant — The India. The high arches and stone walls of the vaulted cellar provided a dramatic backdrop for our spicy dishes (Jack’s not mine—I’m allergic now to capsaicin!) It was a delicious reminder that London thrives on culinary and cultural layers, like a heaping helping of Lasagna.

One thing the British do spectacularly is pageantry! Think Changing of the Guards, and all things Royal. We scored great seats for the Household Division Military Musical Spectacular at Horse Guards Parade. This year’s theme—Heroes—wove military, literary, and musical tributes into one stirring evening where Princess Anne took the Royal Salute that evening, but of course, we loved the Pipes and drums of the London Scottish Regiment.

Royal Symphony Orchestra at Hyede Park

Household Division

Princess Anne at Concert

The India

We were able to meet up with Vic from the old Navy days at the In & Out Club and had a wonderful Sunday Roast at the Grenadier with cousins Peter and Emily Skinner. The Grenadier, a tiny Belgravia pub with a big reputation, is hidden away down a quiet mews. Originally built in 1720 as the officers’ mess for the senior infantry regiment, it became a public house favored by the Duke of Wellington and is one of London’s most haunted pubs.

Of course, there is always a pub somewhere along the way. One of our best walks was out to the Thames Barriers, one of the largest movable flood barriers in the world, built in response to the 1928 and ’53 floods, which caused the embankments to give way and flood the surrounding areas. On our way home, we stopped at the Prospect of Whitby – one of the oldest pubs along the Thames (1520 originally the Devil’s Tavern. Its reputation goes back to a darker chapter in London’s history as it overlooks Execution Dock, where pirates and criminals were put to death, their bodies left to hang as the tides washed over them. Judge George Jeffreys—the “Hanging Judge” watched as his sentences of death were carried out. A replica noose still dangles by the riverside terrace, a grim reminder of London’s past.

Vic Meyer Meet-up

Grenadier Sunday Lunch w/ PJ & Emily Skinner

Thames Barriers

Prospect of Whitby

London offers endless contrasts—grassy escapes, grand dining rooms, and centuries-old pubs. In the space of a few days, we moved between all of them, with family friends, cousins, and a few Londoners. Our Canadian friends, Kim and Peter Enns, met us at Kew Gardens, where we wandered the grounds and caught up on family endeavors. A wonderful dinner with our Queen Mary II friends, Nick and Maggie, introduced us to a delicious Lebanese Meze delight at Comptoir.

The next day, we were off to Amsterdam (update posted!)

For Jack’s birthday, we stopped in at one of Jack’s favourite pubs—the Audley, a Victorian corner pub which is now very, very posh! (Although it was pretty posh 20 years ago!) Later, the celebration continued down the road at Claridge’s, and the Art Deco elegance reminded us of our honeymoon at the Waldorf in NYC. The service and food were amazing, adding a touch of London glamour to his big day.

We love to walk and find new things. Our wandering one morning took us east, to the V&A East in Wapping, which turns the idea of “backstage” inside out—offering visitors access to the vast collection usually hidden away in storage. The effect is part museum gallery and part treasure vault—less about polished displays and more about discovery. You can reserve an object to view and handle items typically stored away. This one-on-one experience gives you a rare, up-close encounter with many of the museum’s artifacts. The East End area (once home to some of the grittiest and dodgiest neighborhoods is slowly recreating itself, punctuated by cafés, creative studios, pubs, and the home of this fabulous museum. We rented bikes and rode along the canals, seeing a different side of London. Unlike the manicured parks and polished squares, the towpaths are dotted with rundown houseboats, decks cluttered with bicycles, firewood, and pots of herbs—definitely a different side of London.

Kew Gardens w/Enns'

To the Audley!

V&A East

Riding Near Olympic Park

I’m such a British History buff, and why I have never toured Westminster Palace before is a mystery to me, so I quickly booked a tour for us before we left. If only the Gothic arches, stained glass, and hammer-beam roof (the largest in Northern Europe) could talk—what would the centuries of political drama reveal? The oldest part of the Palace was built in 1097 and has hosted coronation banquets and the trial of Charles I. We walked through the heart of Britain’s political history—the House of Commons (plain and practical) and the House of Lords (ornate and ceremonial).

Last November, Jack and I watched the Remembrance Day Parade across from the Horse Guards Parade, where King Charles III took the Royal Salute. What I didn’t understand was that within the 10,000 vets who marched were the Chelsea Pensioners. They wear a very distinct scarlet (red coat) uniform with a tricorn hat that reminded me of “The British are coming”. When we had an opportunity to visit the Royal Hospital Chelsea, we jumped at the chance. It isn’t a hospital like we think, it’s instead a grand retirement community for retired British Army soldiers over the age of 65. We ended with a pint at the Surprise (of Master and Commander fame); it truly was a very special day.

Our last weekend in London saw beautiful weather. As a farewell to the city, we walked the north bank, avoiding the throngs of tourists near Westminster Bridge and the London Eye, and crossed to the south bank for a pint at the Founders Arms, with its view of St. Paul’s across the water. Next up was the Horniman at Hays with the London skyline across the river. We ended with dinner at Tavolino, a moderately priced Italian restaurant at the foot of the Tower Bridge. As dusk fell, the bridge lit up in pale blue; it felt a fitting close. We’ve taken so many photos at the same spot in front of that bridge!

Sunday brought very warm temps—80°, and half of London seemed to be on the train south with us to the coastal town of Seaford—our destination: the Seven Sisters, those rolling chalk cliffs that drop dramatically into the English Channel. The trail is 13 miles, but it isn’t a gentle coastal stroll; it’s more a test of stamina disguised as scenery. About five miles into the hike, nature was calling; however, the only toilet was at Birling Gap with a line of about 50 women snaking around the corner. A reminder that even epic nature settings come with everyday inconveniences. I had to wait another hour and a half for some relief when we stopped at the Beachy Head Pub for our last plate of fish and chips and a cold pint. The trip ended in Eastbourne, where Southern Railway carried us home.

Our last day found us packing for our last adventure to Crete. A 3:30 am wake-up for the 4:30 Gatwick Express found us winging our way to Heraklion, Crete.

Seven Sisters Hike

Can't keep up!

I can’t believe what Jack and I have done over the past 14 months. What began as a dream stretched into 14 remarkable months of travel, spread across seven countries and countless experiences. At the heart of our trip was London, where seven months offered us time to sink into a daily routine and rhythm. We love all things about London. To wander through London is to experience history, not hidden away in museums, but as something alive—a pint at one of the many historic pubs, the skyline with its odd shapes to honour St. Pauls, and the River Thames—the city’s lifeline that once ferried kings and queens to their coronation and carried the Pilgrims to the New World. That little river has borne witness to triumphs and tragedies: barges loaded with royal treasure, prison ships bound for execution docks, and flotillas celebrating naval victories.

Samuel Johnson had it right many years ago. “When a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.” It’s a phrase that still rings true today. From Westminster’s grandeur to hidden pubs down crooked lanes, from the hum of the South Bank to the quiet of the many parks and Gardens, London never quite runs out of ways to surprise and absorb.

One Response

Janet M Pearson says:

August 25, 2025 at 11:50 pm

great article!

Reply

Crete, Greece

Amsterdam, Netherlands

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